a once in a lifetime journey to the coldest place on Earth

Antarctica

The Journey

December 19, 2023

Embarkation
Punta Arenas, Chile

The journey begins with first flying into Santiago, Chile, followed by another flight to Punta Arenas, Chile. Then taking a limited charter flight to the King George Island, South Shetland Islands. From there, a bus to drive to a Zodiac where we put on the appropriate clothing (life jackets, boots, etc) only to then be transported to the vessel called World Voyager operated by Atlas Ocean Voyages.

Activities in the Antarctic are governed by the Antarctic Treaty of 1959, collectively known as the “Antarctic Treaty System”, which establishes the continent as a zone of peace and science. In 1991, they adopted the Protocol on Environmental Protection that designates Antarctica as a natural reserve as well.

At the same time in 1991, the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) was also founded. The combination of these leads to certain procedures that must take place before one can set foot in Antarctica. This day was therefore spent on a variety of mandatory safety briefings, guest drills, Zodiac briefings, IAATO briefings and so on. In general, what all one can and cannot do for the sake of protecting and respecting Antarctic wildlife, the protected areas, and scientific research.

Cierva Cove lies 6 nautical miles southeast of Cape Sterneck in Hughes Bay, just south of Chavdar Peninsula along the west coast of Graham Land, Antarctica. It was named for Juan de la Cierva, the Spanish designer of the autogiro, which was the first successful rotating wing aircraft in 1923.

Palaver Point is a point on the west side of Two Hummock Island, in the Palmer Archipelago situated 5.07 km northwest of Veyka Point, the south extremity of the island. The name arose because the feature is the site of a penguin rookery, with its attendant ceaseless noise resembling the profuse and idle discussion denoted by the word “palaver.”

Today’s Expedition:

Morning Zodiac ride in the Cierva Cove (with multiple whale sightings)
Evening Zodiac Landing at Palaver Point (with many Gentoo and Chinstrap penguin sightings)

Orne Harbor is a cove one mile wide, indenting the west coast of Graham Land two miles southwest of Cape Anna along the Danco Coast on the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula. Discovered by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition under Gerlache in 1898, the name Orne Harbor was probably in use by Norwegian whalers, because it was used by Scottish geologist David Ferguson following his geologic reconnaissance of this area aboard the whaler Hanka in 1913.

Today’s Expedition:

Morning Zodiac Continental Landing in Orne Harbor
Evening Zodiac Landing in the Orne Islands
Evening Popcorn Movie: Antarctica - A Year on Ice

President Head is a headland forming the east extremity of Snow Island, in the South Shetland Islands, Antarctica. It extends 2.6 km in east-northeast direction, rising to 107 m at St. Sofroniy Knoll. The adjacent ice-free area includes Calliope Beach on the north side of the peninsula and Oeagrus Beach on its south site.

The name “President Island” was applied by the Stonington sealers in 1820 - 1821 to Snow Island, but that name did not become established. “President Head” was applied by the United Kingdom Antarctic Place-Names Committee (UK-APC) in 1961 in order to reserve the name on this island.

Today’s Expedition:

Morning Zodiac Continental Landing in President Head
Afternoon lecture on Humpback Whale’s Life
Afternoon cooking demonstration of Suugo Suqaar, Somali Pasta with Meat Sauce)
COLD PLUNGE!!!

Now marked the voyage back to land, and the rite of passage for anyone traveling to or from Antarctica is the voyage through the infamous Drake’s Passage lasting two days.

The name “Drake’s Passage” or “Drake’s Sea” used in international and Latin America cartography has its origins in the English privateer Francis Drake who, sixty years earlier, in 1578, crossed the Strait of Magellan with his ship The Golden Hind, traveled south and demonstrated to his king that Tierra del Fuego was not a continent, as was believed until then in England, but an island of regular size. The waters of the pass are famously stormy with waves over ten meters not uncommon.

Today’s Expedition:

Unfortunately, even with anti-nausea electronic wristbands, manual wristbands, and OTC medications for motion sickness, it could not combat the sea sickness that ensued.
Waves were 15+ meters high, so I was in bed for most of this day

Day 2 of our passage through the mighty seas and also the last day at sea.

Today’s Expedition:

It was also Christmas, so I fought the motion sickness to attend their special Christmas Dinner
Lecture on The Wonders of Glaciology
A tour of the Galley and the Kitchen Crew

Disembarked at Ushuaia and made our way to the local airport to first fly to Argentina, before taking one last flight back home.

One amazing, breath-taking, unforgettable experience!